August 2024
Stats: 3-day trip; total length 250km and +4,800m elevation gain
More info on the route at Switzerland Mobility https://schweizmobil.ch/en/cycling-in-switzerland/route-99
With a few days of vacation remaining and a sunny weather, I selected this multi-day biking trip in Eastern Switzerland, finally completing the bucolic and scenic Heart Route (Route 99) that I started in 2016 . And since there is no return home in the evening, I made each day a bit longer than each official 99 Sections, shaving off 2 days from the pre-determined section breaks.
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DAY-1: Arrival by train in Einsiedeln early pm: bike Einsiedeln to Breitenmatt (99-09/99-10) for 70km and 1,100m D+
What better place to start my 3-day bike “pilgrimage” than the town of Einsiedeln, on the St. James Path and the most important Swiss pilgrimage site? And thus, I arrive by train where I left off about a year ago when I biked Routes 9:07 and 99:08.
Crossing Einsiedeln, one cannot miss its enormous Benedictine Monastery (18th century Baroque) smacked in the center of town. The initial monastery was built in 934 but the Baroque additions date from the 1700.
After briefly coasting the northern shores of the Sihlsee, the route heads north along an old pilgrim route part of the Via Jacobi and rich in religious sites such as chapels, crosses and memorials. It then starts a long descent with open views of Lake Zurich.
Reaching Lake Zurich, the path goes around the southern tip of the lake. At this point , if in need of a bathroom, you can find a free clean public one by the port of the pretty little lakeside town of Lachen. And you should take advantage of it because the next village is a good 20km away!
The road continues along the southern tip of the lake, with a significant climb into the woods. Here the asphalt gives way to a shaded natural path deep into the forest: I’m glad I am on a mountain bike , but gravel tires could be OK too.
Rejoined the lake at Schmerikon, the path continues flat for 10km until Rapperswil. Along this stretch are parks where people enjoy sunbathing or swims in the lake.
In Rapperswil I cannot miss a little stroll on the 841-meter wooden bridge (the longest in Switzerland) stretching across the lake, and reproducing the wooden bridge that existed in the Middle Ages for pilgrims on their way from Einsiedeln to Santiago de Compostela.
Rapperswil was founded in the 13th century and soon became an important Habsburg strategic base. It is now a large town with a lot of train connections (thus the official break between bike sections 99-09/10). Its old quarter is also very picturesque, famously decorated with roses of all different species. And of course I can’t resist a bike uphill to the old Castle. From there one can have a superb panorama on Lake Zurich and the surrounding peaks .
I then continue into the beginning of Section 99:10. A few km out, at Bubikon, is the historic site of The Knights’ House (Ritterhaus), one of the best preserved commandery of the Order of St. John, dating back to 1192 . It is a pity that I arrive too late, because it offers tours of its incredibly decorated historic rooms (https://www.ritterhaus.ch/en/history-and-building/)
But the day is over and I retire to a nice country hotel in Breitenmatt, along the route. This sits isolated on a hill surrounded by countryside and with a magnificent panorama on mountains and lake. In the evening , I can still hear cows’ bells !
Note that this section from Einsiedeln to Uznach on Lake Zurich is loosely on the same path of Route 9:08. T
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DAY-2: bike Breitenmatt to Lütisburg (99-10/99-11) for 75km and 1,400m D+
This day is pure countryside and hilly landscape. Not much historic nor artistic landmark.
Arrived in Wattil, with surprise I spot an ancient Tower on the surrounding hills (not mentioned on the SwitzerlandMobility website). I open the Google map, and indeed I found this unknown, but well preserved Burg Iberg (13th century, rebuilt in 1902) purposely situated along the Jacob Way. It is open 10am-7pm, April-Oct and has free access . But I soon discover why it is not on the tourist list: there is no road to reach its entrance, just a single track steep natural path. Though short, it allows only pedestrian traffic. And so, not to leave all my belongings in the parking below, I haul my heavy bike up the hill and run up the Tower for a quick peek. The tower is completely bare inside but it is very well preserved and one can walk all the way to the top to enjoy an amazing 360 panorama.
Continuing into the following Section 99:11, I arrive at my night destination in Lütisburg, passing again various religious symbols.
The little village of Lütisburg has 2 nice bridges that enrich its landscape: a tall arched recent one and a covered wooden 18th century one
Overall this day was very relaxing and not too long, though the total elevation gain of 1,400m was definitely felt at the end of the day.
Starving, I found a Pizzeria to celebrate the day!
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DAY-3: bike Lütisburg to Rheineck (99-11/99-12/99-13) for 105km and 2,300m D+
From Lütisburg, I start a series of small hills in the countryside and into the woods until I reach Herisau, the official end of 9:11.
Herisau is now mostly a modern town, but the old center has still some historic alleys and decorated façades.
Back on the saddle, I follow Section 99:12 with its beautiful little towns distributed here and there among green hilly pastures.
Stein AR is a perfect stop for recharging phones, bikes, food and for using a toilet at its Appenzeller Cheese Factory. Here one can enjoy an indoor/oudoor restaurant with typical Appenzell food , as well as a souvenir shop. It sits right along the Heart-Route and thus it provides bike holders with charging outlets!
Next are more of the same picturesque hills against the stony background of mountains.
And then I arrive at the fairytale and very touristic village of Appenzell, with its colorful wooden houses and craft shops, resembling a doll village (See also 4:01). The façades are just a feast for the eyes, with different colors and decorated panels.
Here I take a break in the car-free center and enjoy the festive atmosphere, indulging in an amazing Italian ice-cream to cool off.
And then, as I continue in the idyllic countryside, I hear rifle shots at regular intervals. I think that there must be a shooting range nearby, but I never thought, in my wildest imagination, that the road I was biking on would pass right in the middle of it !!!!!!!!!!!
At last I arrive in Altstätten at my self-check-in Hotel. And what a surprise! The Untertor self-service Hotel is none other than the 16th century town gate, restored and converted for lodging! The check-in is seamless via an easy-to-use machine that will distribute your room key. The inside of the Hotel has maintained the timber structure and its medieval aura. The only issue is that the floors are screeching so if someone walks around at night, you may woke up.
Altstätten was an important commercial center, especially for textiles. The main street in the old-town has retained its picturesque architecture, and the old houses have peculiarly decorated shutters on the last floor.
Since I arrive quite early around 4pm, it feels a waste to just remain in town for the rest of the afternoon. Additionally, tomorrow will be pouring rain and that will compromise my biking plans. Thus, after check-in and a 20% battery recharge, I decide to continue on along the next Section 99:13.
The first 10km are tough though, especially after a full day of biking. It is a constant ascent of 750m elevation gain, which I bike slowly to conserve the little battery charge I have left. The top, at St Anton (1,100m), offers a wide open panorama of the valley below and of the Austrian mountains further away. If needed, there is a rustic Restaurant here well equipped with ebike charges and repairing tools. Too bad that I do not have time to sit and recharge the bike.
But from there the road is a constant winding descent until the next main town of Rheineck (nothing special here). This 16-km downhill ride also offers beautiful panoramic views of the Bodensee (Lake Constance).
Arrived in Rheineck at 7pm and with only 10% battery left I have no longer the strength nor the courage to undertake the last 11 km and 200m elevation to Rorschach (the official end of Route 99). I would have to bike in the hills without engine at twilight, thus really not safe, especially if something happens like a flat tire. So in Rheineck I take a 30min train back to Alstätten and my quaint historic hotel.
At the end, I ALMOST completed the entire Route 99, save for the last 11km. And I decide to OFFICIALLY declare this route COMPLETED, even with this minor inaccuracy (11km out of the 725km total Route). In any case the missing path is only hilly landscape, while Rorschach has been already toured in my biking of Route 2:05.
PS:This trip made me realize that on a full battery charge I cannot do more than 2,000m elevation gain. The distance hovers around 100k but that is more flexible depending on the elevation, as it could be longer on flatter surfaces.
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Links to Introduction and Other Sections of Route 99:
- BIKING THROUGH SWITZERLAND (with an electric bike)
- Route 99: Section 1 – Lausanne to Romont
- Route 99: Section 2 – Romont to Laupen
- Route 99: Section 3 – Laupen to Thun
- Route 99: Section 4 – Thun to Langnau I.E.
- Route 99: Section 5 – Langnau i.E. to Burgdorf
- Route 99: Section 6 – Burgdorf to Willisau
- Route 99: Section 7 – Willisau to Zug
- Route 99: Section 8 – Einsiedeln to Zug
- Route 4: Section 1 – cycling St. Margrethen to Appenzell
- Route 2 (Rhine Route): Section 5 – St. Margrethen to Kreuzlingen
- Route 9: Section 7 ; cycling Zug to Einsiedeln
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